Island life

Canvey Island seemed to be having a day without weather. A little light cloud, no real sunshine to speak of, and not too much of that biting wind which blows down the Thames Estuary and would freeze the dangling parts off any brass monkey unlucky enough to be in the vicinity. It was a blessing, as this is a place which, although a joy when the sun is shining, can seem to be one of the coldest places in the world when that large yellow ball of gas doesn’t have his hat on.

As residents of the United Kingdom we live on an island shaped by its weather. The gulf stream makes Britain liveable, and fertile; it gives us that combination of wetness and warmth which allows us to live the way we do. To understand the importance of the gulf stream to our prosperity it’s worth thinking about the fact that London is on the same latitude as Calgary, Canada- the fifty-first parallel. Calgary has hosted the Winter Olympics. London might get a little nippy now and again but there is a reason why football is our national sport, not ice hockey.

At this point you’re probably wondering why an article about a football match is so obsessed with the weather. It isn’t, as you might have thought, because the writer was spending an afternoon at Park Lane, home of Canvey Island FC, and has just opened the boot of his car to realise that he has left his big coat at home-although you could have probably heard his groans of annoyance in Calgary. It is because in doing the research for this FA Cup match- and local derby- between Canvey Island and Bowers and Pitsea it soon became apparent that the Gulls have few records of their early years, those between 1926 and 1953. The reason? A flood so fierce that it destroyed much of the area, not just the Gulls paperwork, and led to the evacuation of thirteen thousand people.

The North Sea flood of 1953 killed people in England, Scotland, Belgium and the Netherlands. In England there were three hundred and seven deaths across Lincolnshire, Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex. Fifty eight- or fifty nine, depending on which source you believe- of those deaths were on Canvey Island- an area of seven square miles. That seems entirely disproportionate, but it perhaps goes to demonstrate the geographical uniqueness of this place, and the creation amongst its hard-pressed residents of something of a siege mentality. Its relationship with the weather still defines the area even now.

We’re only four years away from the seventieth anniversary of that disaster and yet the Island still floods. The sea defences have- of course- been dramatically improved (many of them are coated with brightly coloured murals depicting the history of the area), but in many parts of Canvey there is always a danger of further flooding; particularly in the north of the Island and not due to the sea, but due to the fact that our climate is getting wetter and the land is very low-lying.. People have to live with the possibility that their homes could end up under water- and twice this decade a number of them have experienced just that. It’s perhaps partly because of this perceived lack of government support that Canvey has its own thriving Independence Party, fighting to allow Islanders to take more control of their own affairs after feeling abandoned and isolated by the governing local authority, set on the mainland- and fighting a successful battle, too, winning seat after seat on the local council but never enough to be anything other than a minority. It’s not difficult to understand why Canvey would look inward, rather than outward.

That’s not to say that the town is unfriendly to outsiders; indeed the truth is rather the opposite. Walking along the seafront before the match what was notable was that everyone walking past- and there were many people out for a stroll- said hello; they smiled, they wanted to pass the time of day. This is a town that voted overwhelmingly for Brexit- 70% of the voters- and yet it belies the image that often goes with that by being warm (in the human sense, we’re not back to the weather again) and welcoming to outsiders. From the lady who was being taken for a walk by her French bulldog (bloody European canines, coming over here and using our beaches as a toilet), to the couple whose golden retriever was in the middle of the seawater paddling pool refusing to come out; to the two ladies sharing a flask of coffee on one of the many- it seemed like hundreds- of memorial benches leant up against the sea wall, and the family heading to the playpark just behind the right hand end of the stadium, the outlook was sunny. The strange bloke with a camera around his neck was someone to engage with, not to be suspicious of. It was, it must be said, joyous-and the welcome extended to the football ground, too.

In the scheme of things, the loss of a few historical football records is small beer indeed.
Football is important here, however. Wandering around the town centre three hours before the match that was evident by the amount of claret and blue visible. West Ham United’s match against Crystal Palace wasn’t due to kick off until half past five, and it was on the TV, so perhaps that explained the unhurried nonchalance of those heading to East London. Sadly there was far less yellow and blue visible, but then Canvey is a town which has a large population who have East London roots, and brought their footballing allegiances with them. But in times of success they will come out and support their local football club in large numbers- and there has been plenty of success. At the beginning of the last decade they won the FA Trophy as an Isthmian League club- the first such victory in twenty years, and there have been none since- and promotion got them into the Conference National, before financial issues saw them head back to the Isthmian League after voluntary demotion saw them placed in our North Division. They climbed back to the Premier, then fell back North again at the end of 2016-17, and have spent the last few seasons underachieving slightly in their efforts to regain a Step Three position.

It is, however, their FA Cup exploits which have brought the most glory to Park Lane. Earlier this week on social media, as the club were promoting today’s match, a Port Vale fan admitted to shuddering at the mention of their name, recalling defeat for his side in the First Round in 2001. Other league clubs have come unstuck against Canvey, too- future winners Wigan Athletic, and Northampton Town- and there have been matches against Southend United which evoke positive- and fairly recent- memories, and a draw with Brighton on the Island which was only prevented from being a victory by a last gasp fingertip save, and which caused the then Albion manager Liam Brady a great deal of panic.

The last time the Gulls had a significant run in the competition was five years ago, when they were knocked out in a Fourth Qualifying Round Replay by Havant & Waterlooville. That may seem a long time, but when compared to today’s opponents the FA Cup record of Canvey is nothing short of superb. This was the furthest that Bowers had ever progressed in the competition.

That’s a statement which needs some explaining. Bowers United, who became Bowers and Pitsea in 2004, were always at a significantly lower level of the pyramid than their more illustrious hosts. This is only their fourth season at a level higher than Step Five. Recent progress, under manager Rob Small, has been astonishing. Canvey may have won twenty three of the fifty six matches between the clubs- with thirteen draws- but for one of the few times during that period that the rivalry has existed, the home side were today the underdogs. Bowers haven’t yet found top form in the BetVictor Isthmian Premier Division, but that hasn’t been because they are struggling to create chances- it seems, rather, to be because they aren’t taking them. With such a prolific strike force- ninety six league goals when winning promotion last season- you’d expect that to change. Canvey would hope that change didn’t begin today.

The Gulls have had a mixed start to their league season, with as many losses as wins. In cup competitions, however, they have been imperious. Stotford, Waltham Abbey, and then last week Step Three St Ives Town have all been vanquished- the latter victory yesterday saw them awarded our Performance of the Month prize for September. Last weekend they walloped Welwyn Garden City to progress in the FA Trophy too. In Jason Hallett they had an in-form striker who had scored four times in his last three FA Cup matches (and twice in that Trophy victory). They might be underdogs on paper, but they probably didn’t feel like it in their heads; although it must be said that the fact that Hallett was unavailable was a bit of a blow.

It was almost sunny as the sides walked out at three minutes to three, but only almost. Both were in their home colours; Canvey yellow and blue, Bowers red and white. This was the queue for the ground to fill up, which demonstrated just how many people had been crammed inside the clubhouse watching Spurs lose. The almost-traditional huddles out of the way, it was the home side that got us underway.

The first six minutes passed with little incident; indeed the only action of note was an injury to James Thomas and the sight of a large container vessel sailing behind the Canvey goal. This was the signal for Bowers to come to life, and Lewis Manor fired in a shot which hit the right hand post, keeper beaten. Manor’s strike partner David Knight then got into the act, a shot from the other side forcing Lamar Johnson into a fine full stretch save. This set us up for a period of Bowers pressure which ended when Brad Warner fired in a shot which was closer to the sea wall than the goal. Warner’s next effort, in the fourteenth minute, was both on target and required saving, but it didn’t cause Johnson any difficulties.

It would be unfair to suggest that the home side weren’t in the game. Josh Hutchinson, particularly, was making the visiting defence work, but Canvey weren’t testing Callum Chafer despite some neat approach play, and twenty minutes passed without the Bowers keeper being called into serious action. They did take the initiative, and pushed forward, taking the game to Bowers, but every move seemed to break down on the edge of the box. “Yellows, yellows,” sang the home fans, encouraging their side, but there was little sign of a breakthrough at either end. Bowers defender Ryan Sammons took a short break to eat a Mars bar; allowed to work, rest and play because Quentin Monville was on the attack at the other end.

Seven minutes before the break Canvey got the chance to put the ball into the Bowers box. Tobi Joseph was clattered by Bowers skipper Kenzer Lee, the challenge producing a yellow card, and Hutchinson wandered over to the right to take it; but again the opportunity was wasted, finding only a defensive head- Lee, not distracted by his booking, nor by the cut to the head he’d received in making the challenge that led to it. The game wasn’t short of action, nor endeavour, but it badly needed a goal. Would we get one by half time?

We came very close. Right on forty five minutes a corner came over from the right, and up went Manor, head and shoulders above the Canvey defence. His header flew towards the goal and struck the bar; the second time he’d hit the woodwork so far. Into added time and the Gulls had the chance to strike a blow, Callum Leahy committing a rather unnecessary challenge on George Purcell right on the corner of the box. The free kick was delivered as a cross rather than a shot, and headed out for a corner- which was wasted as James White backed into the keeper and the referee blew for a free kick, and for the interval.

The second half continued as the first had ended, only in the sunshine. Bowers pressed, Canvey broke, and Purcell forced Chafer into his first real save of the match three minutes after the restart. At the other end, and from a tight angle, Warner, who we expected to cross, fired a shot which clipped the bar before going behind. Then a great run from Hutchinson forced a save from Chafer at his near post, before the corner- continuing with a trend- was wasted.

Canvey continued to apply pressure, and a fabulous cross from Hutchinson forced a magnificent defensive header from Cornhill before Chafer punched it behind. The corner, as usual, failed to beat the man on the near post. The next chance came on the hour, and it went to the visitors, but their free kick at the edge of the box was fired low straight into the feet of the Canvey wall. The Gulls had already had two FA Cup replays. Could we be heading for a third? As a chance fell to Cornhill at the edge of the Canvey box, and his shot headed towards the corner flag, there seemed every chance of that.

Albert Levett tried to do something about that on the edge of the Bowers box, sidefooting a shot towards goal, but it went wide. We had twenty three minutes left; and then we got a goal. Brad Warner combined with Lewis Manor, got into the box, and from a tight angle shaped to shoot. Home keeper Johnson expected the shot to go across him towards the right hand corner, and moved to his left, at which Warner went the other way and sent the ball inside the near post. Bowers were ahead. Could they stay there?

No, was the quick answer; Canvey were level within two minutes. More great work from Hutchinson, who was undoubtedly the best player on the pitch, saw the ball laid back to James White- and his shot was perfect, skimming into the net. We had nineteen minutes left to find a winner.

Manor headed over, and then we had the first change of the match, Canvey bringing on Hamilton Bunga, recently arrived from Hythe Town. It seemed a like-for-like change, Ade Osifuwa at left back going off, perhaps having taken a knock.

Into the last ten minutes and it was the visitors who were pressing. Joe Gardner fired in a grass cutter which had Johnson at full stretch, and with the rebound about to be knocked in the assistant’s flag went up. Offside. Bunga, who had made four mistakes in the short time he had been on the field, was then withdrawn by his manager. The last mistake could easily have led to a Bowers penalty, as he seemed to foul Monville as the Bowers man charged into the box, but the referee thought otherwise- much to the surprise of everyone in the press box. It was a brutal move by Gulls manager Mark Bentley, but nobody was really surprised. The defender had been on the pitch fourteen minutes.

Full time came and went with little further incident, and no further goals. Canvey perhaps weren’t surprised.

Canvey Island was the home town of those godfathers of punk, Eddie and the Hot Rods. They band are even celebrated on the seawall; an image that took on extra poignancy this week with the passing of frontman Barrie Masters, aged only sixty-three. Their big hit- and anyone of a certain age is now singing it- was a song called ‘Do Anything You Wanna Do.’ It’s a title that perhaps sums up the attitudes of the area. This is a place that is singularly independent, free-minded, and won’t follow the crowd.
What Canvey wanna do is to get back to the Isthmian Premier Division and have another chance of cup glory. There was enough about the side today to suggest that these aspirations might not be far from fruition.

Bowers at the Len Salmon stand in their way on Tuesday night. Hallett will be back to lead the line.